Maytag Dryer is failing to run.

Found loose connections of power cable at dryer. The screws were tight but the lugs were floating a bit. There was no terminal damage. I found a washer was needed which allowed the terminal rings of the cable to connect tightly to the lugs. The dryer continued to not start however. 

Found the Control Board p/n 8546219 had a burnt track under the 30 amp relay which powers the motor. 

This dryer was built in 2007, 14 years ago and the control board is listed as obsolete. Why I wonder, it is still in excellent shape. No rust or noticeable wear. Per eBay we could substitute with p/n 3978918 which the cheapest was $99.99 for a used one. There were others for $200.

Repaired burnt track with an external wire soldered in place. I used a Dremel tool to cut an opening big enough to reach the relay post for a clean solder joint. 

Dryer now is operating normally. (Cost $0)

Home Heat Pump line insulation repair

Our 7-year old heat pumps copper tubes insulation has deteriorated due to UV rays. So I was able to replace with closed cell insulation that hopefully will last longer. This insulation wraps edge seals together nicely.

Oil on pavement from our 2006 Honda Odyssey

We observed oil on pavement from our 2006 Honda Odyssey. I have needed to add steering fluid several times in the last few month. (We drive the car maybe once a week.)  

The internet suggested that the upper hose from the steering pump is a common oil leak issue as is the o-ring on bracket for the crankcase oil filter. 

I cleaned off the upper hose at the top of the motor and with the engine running observed steering oil coming through a pinhole about an inch from the pump. 

Honda sells their hose for about $200. Amazon Prime had a hose for $30. I ordered the $30 replacement hose along with Honda Steering fluid and an extra o-ring totaling $60. 

I was unable to break loose the nut that attaches the hose to the steering rail with a 14mm combination wrench. I ended up hack-sawing the hose at the rack and used a socket wrench to break the joint free, which took a lot of force. I was able to reach one hand through from either the bottom or top, after removing the air filter and hoses. Using a light cord to align the hose at the steering rack I was able to finger tighten the steering hose nut then use a wrench to secure the nut tightly. I pulled the steering hose’s flexible end down near the passenger front wheel and pulled the rigid part of the hose out at the same place. The new hose went in the same way. 

There was quite a bit of oil on the axle/CV joint and it will be interesting to watch for awhile to see if the leak is totally fixed or just the steering fluid leak is repaired. 

Wrapped hose at leak with electrical tape and used clamp to temporarily reduce leak in case we needed to drive the vehicle. 

In the center a third up from the bottom is the nut for the steering hose connection to the steering rack. Very hard to reach. 

A picture of the nut from underneath. 

The oil residue. Now mostly cleaned off.

My 5 year old AcuRite Weather System battery life

My 5 year old AcuRite Weather System outside monitor battery life was only about 5 months long as compared to the first batteries that lasted 5 years, I suspect. Opened up the outside sensor unit and found a moth jammed inside. Not really sure that the moth caused the battery drain but I did remove the moth, replace the batteries and reinstall the unit 20 feet in the air.

******************************************************

Now in October of 2020 the outside unit batteries are dead again after only 5 months!

Window upgrade

Our house, family built, in 1975 had 19 windows and a sliding door made with the brown aluminum frames. These frames were great in the fact that they never rotted like the old wooden frames however they do pass the cold too easily. Half the windows were double pane and most leaked so there ends up water vapor blocking a clear window. So I have over time replaced the leaky ones with the new vinal Milgard Windows. Today was the day for the top floor's 8-foot wide window. I seem to do it differently each time, unfortunately. (Slow learner, I know.) What follows is a picture sequence of today's work after I removed the glass panels. I have this feeling the frame will not be used again but it will get recycled for aluminum. Thanks, Don for the help with installing the new window.

Electric Log Splitter oil seal failure

I have an electric, 7 ton, firewood splitter I purchased from Sears mail order January 2015, 5 years ago. It is a Powerhouse model LS7T-52 Log Splitter.



Problem –

The splitting hammer stopped advancing and then oil began seeping from the motor on/off switch that is located on the side of the motor.



Solution –

I disassembled the hydraulic pump from the motor and observed the seal in the pump that seals the hydraulic fluid in the pump failed, allowing fluid to seep between the motor shaft and the seal into the motor and then into the on/off switch box and from there to the floor.



The parts breakdown diagram in the Operation Manual did not show this seal. I was able to read some numbers on the seal, although I did not recognize the numbers as a part number for a time. The seal was 1.024 in outside diameter and the motor shaft diameter was 0.432 inches. On the seal were the numbers 11 at the 9 o’clock position, then 26 at the 6 o’clock position and 7 at the 3 o’clock position. I now know these values are the metric millimeter measurements of the seal. 11 millimeters is the shaft diameter, 26 millimeters is the outside measurement and 7 millimeters is the width of the seal. 



I was able to order this sized from ebay for $5.99 that includes shipping cost and was able to get the seal in 3 days.



I replaced the seal and reassemble the hardware but the motor would not start until I hand spun the motor several turns. Something had to seat apparently as the shaft turned easily after the couple of turns. Then the motor started normally.



I also found some less viscosity hydraulic fluid which was 20 weight which is much closer to the 22 weight the operators manual calls for. (It is possible the fluid I added before was 30 weight which could have contributed to the failure, I suppose. However the reason I had needed to add fluid was likely because the seal was seeping.)

1st floor bathroom faucet replacement

Replaced the bathroom faucet in 1st floor that was installed in 1991. The handle was a little stiff as it needs to be taken apart after 8 years or so and the o-rings lubricated. Also the drain pivot that controls the plug for the drain was totally corroded making it totally not salvageable. A generic drain pivot replacement cost $15 and I was unsure it would function well. Then the faucet was starting to show cosmetic rust where it joins to the sink. The faucet still shut off perfectly.


We purchased a new Moen Faucet for under $60 at Costco with a spout that is raised higher and has a push to seat the stopper and then push to release stopper.  It looks like it will work much nicer. Such a deal. 

Original 1991 Faucet

New Faucet  

New hookup